Kyoto Food

There are many types of food to explore in Kyoto and we love all of it. We had the gift of time, which allowed us to scope out many restaurants and make reservations for later dates. If you don’t have the time for that, you can either plan a day early in your visit where you go to these places and make reservations for later in your visit, or ask your hotel to reserve for you. You may want to be more spontaneous. We certainly found some great places by just walking in and getting lucky with availability. However, we found that in Kyoto, especially, many of the best restaurants are SMALL –they need advanced notice to plan the food, so sometimes they can’t take you even if there is room.

Some visitors are offended when they see empty chairs and are told the restaurant is full. If a Japanese restaurant can't give good service, they won't take you. Good service means they have food ready and they will not have to rush you to accommodate other guests with reservations. We have never encountered true anti-Western refusals, and we know this because when we ask about reservations on another day, it always works.

We have a lot of restaurants here. A LOT! This is because we visit Kyoto often and we love Japanese food. You can use our GoogleMap which includes most of the restaurants, as well as other locations of interest in Kyoto.

If you'd like to jump to a particular type, here are some links:

Kaiseki /Formal Omakase (multi-course meals, various price ranges) Kaiseki is usually 9 courses, each featuring a different cooking method. You can read more about kaiseki here. Omakase means "chef's choice" and we included some with the kaiseki list when they are price fixed set menus.

Soy/Tofu-Centered--most soy-centered restaurants are NOT necessarily vegetarian, though they may have vegetarian options.

Tempura-- lightly fried foods. Good tempura is not greasy or heavy. It is something we have never found done well in the US, and one of our favorite food experiences in Japan. Fancy tempura restaurants offer set courses--omakase/ chef's choice-- with reverence to seasonal foods. Casual tempura restaurants let you choose a few items, or a bowl of ten-don (various items over rice) and there are Japanese regional differences in how this is prepared.

Curry-popularized in Japan in the late 1800's, it is extremely common and popular in Japan.

Yaki--"yaki" means grilled or pan-fried in Japanese. (You probably know the word "teriyaki" already; that's meat or fish cooked with "teri" sweet soy sauce glaze) "Yaki" is attached to other words to describe a wide variety of specialty restaurants. Yakiniku (BBQ) is always a safe bet for those who like meat, especially those afraid of more diverse Japanese cuisine. They also tend to be easy to get into without reservations. Yakiniku restaurants have you choose your cut of meat, pick a few vegetables on the side, and then you cook it at your table. Yakitori features skewers of chicken. Yakisoba is pan fried noodles and Okinomiyaki is a pancake overstuffed with vegetables and meat/fish (optional) and cooked on a griddle.

Izakaya/Obanzai--Izakaya are a type of casual restaurant that serve alcohol and small bites of food. Izakaya often have specialities, such as a ryori grill, or fish specialties, but it is also common that any izakaya will have food staples such as potato salad, sashimi, some vegetables, agadashi tofu and, of course, alcohol. Obanzai is a Kyoto term referring to homestyle dishes that follow the seasons. It is usually served in small dishes. The izakaya in Kyoto often have obanzai as well, so we have grouped them here.

Noodles and Soups-- Soba are buckwheat noodles, served hot or cold. Ramen are Chinese-style wheat noodles in a broth. Udon are thick, chewy wheat noodles served hot or cold. These noodles are part of many restaurant menus, but the restaurants in this section are specifically noodle/soup restaurants. Noodles and soups also tend to have regional specialities in Japan.

Unagi--freshwater eel is usually served grilled with a sweet soy-based sauce. Preparation is considered a speciality, like tempura or sushi.

Sushi/Raw Fish-- specifically sushi restaurants, donburi, and sashimi specialty places. Sashimi is always available at izakayas and included in kaiseki menus; this is why the number of raw fish specialty restaurants on our list is small

Other-- anything that doesn't fit in one of our other categories. This includes Washoku (western-inspired food), and non-Japanese restaurants,

Breakfast-- Japanese breakfast spots and recommendations. A traditional Japanese breakfast is rice, fish, and miso soup.

Sweets--mochi and taiyaki! If you need chocolate, head to the basement of any large department store, or try Meiji chocolate (we like the dark) at any convenience store. Of course, flavored Kit-Kats are a popular souvenir and the largest selection of flavors is usually at the DonQuixote (Donkey) department stores. Another local treat are caramels in Japanese flavors, like meat, cantaloupe, and corn.

Kaiseki and Formal Omakase

SASABUNE KAISEKI

Type: Kaiseki with reasonable price and a la carte traditional Japanese dishes

Location: 〒605-0816 Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, 新宮川筋松原下る西御門町 (same street as Japanese Cuisine Aoiki –described above) Monday-Sat 5-11pm; Sunday by special appointment.

Phone:  075-551-2861

This is a Kaiseki restaurant that’s been in business since 1979, but you won’t find it listed on anyone’s touring list. It’s on a street with exclusive clubs that host maiko and geisha.  The Kaiseki here is a traditional offering well executed for a great price. It’s 7,000 yen per person for 10 courses and tea.You can get a reservation no problem. We were the only ones there when we ate there.  We think most of their business must be private parties. There was a lineup of shochu bottles with customer names? You will need someone to call or you go in person to reserve. They don’t speak any English. So show on the calendar or google translate the day and time you want to come and Kaiseki – they will ask which one; we did the 7,000 yen kaiseki. (You can add a hotpot and pay 10k. They also do a la carte but you’d need to google translate the daily menu or ask the chef for omakase )

The food was nicely presented and very fresh and tasty. We’ve eaten a lot of Kaiseki and this earns all its stars. The tempura was the weakest — could be lighter with the batter but there was a generous portion and it was still tasty.

If you want a traditional Kaiseki meal that doesn’t break the bank this is the best inexpensive  Kaiseki we’ve had. You also might spot a maiko on your way in our out. If you see a taxi approaching or waiting, wait to see who emerges.

SHIGETSU @TENRYUJI TEMPLE

Type: vegetarian shojin ryori

Website: https://www.tenryuji.com/shigetsu/

Reservations: required. https://www.tenryuji.com/shigetsu/

Location: inside the Tenryugi temple complex 〒616-8385 Kyoto, Ukyo Ward, Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, ６８

A wonderful location to experience shojin ryori or vegetarian temple food. If you are vegetarian you should make this a destination, but even non-vegetarians will delight in the offerings. They range from 3,500-5,500 yen and you choose when you make the reservation.

This is a multi-course meal served in beautiful, formal style. It is recommended that you plan time to see the temple grounds either before or after your meal; you must pay a separate admission to the garden in order to enter the Shigetsu restaurant anyway, so get your money’s worth.

All the food was good at our February lunch, but some standouts were a mochi with yuzu filling, a soymilk hot pot, and lovely yuba with pickled fiddlehead ferns. We returned in March with 2 of our adult children. The service was not as good. They seemed overworked, it took a long time to get our first course, and they were not attentive to refilling our tea. Our kids also found the food too bland.

If you have trouble sitting on the floor at a low table they can provide you with a chair.

When you enter the building remove your shoes, step up to the main area. There is a call bell at the desk in front of you if no attendant is present. Shoe storage is straight ahead on the left. You will be in your socks only during the meal.

RYORIYA OTAYA

Location: in the Gion on a lovely canal-side street, 456-2 Tenma-cho, Takatsuji corner, Nishikiyamachi-dori, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi

Reservations: TEL: 075-343-1513 or drop by

Website: http://otaya-kyoto.com

Upscale restaurant in the Gion, overlooking one of the canals. Price about $50 for one for what would easily be $150-$300 in the USA (if you could get it) You need a reservation. 12 seats total including 5 at bar plus a private room. Menu only in Japanese but two options are omakase and seasonal omakase for 7k and 9k respectively. I’ve also added the translation for the menus though the offerings will change with the seasons. Waitstaff spoke English to ask our allergies and explain what was served.

• Sardine lightly pickled (kyozushi) with tomatoes steamed greens and tofu dust 6/5

• Mochi gomae mushi :Steamed rice, snapper and cornstarch soup 5/5

• Sashimi 5/5. Tuna, ika, and something like swordfish (which had been crisped on the skin side for nice smokiness). In a season when everyone is serving sea bream (cheap and in season but rather bland) this place went another way – Grilled sea bream marinated in sake katsu, kakiage of baby ayu and a spring veg known as butter burr. The veg is quite bitter but mixing it with the fish cut it perfectly. Again the sea bream which is so mild benefited from the marinade here and, in the first dish, the steamed prep (with ginger). The pickles were also great.

• 20 kinds of veg salad: amazing. Every fruit and veg perfectly tasting and prepped. Served with a dashi vinegar sauce and a mackerel dipping sauce 6/5

• Crab soup with onion and Wakame 5/5

• Rice with baby sardines and sancho berries– other places serve this but here the sardines were not at all fishy! Pickles and red miso with mushrooms 5/5

• Cream Catalan (crème brûlée) frozen!! 5/5 Service superior

The restaurant also supports the rejuvenation of fireflies at the river and they have some special firefly release parties (3) planned for late May in 2023.​

HARISE RESTAURANT KAISEKI

Type: Traditional Kaiseki for lunch or dinner

website: https://harise-kyoto.com/

Location: Japan, 〒605-0911 Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, Daikokucho, 袋町 294

Reservations: we walked in after lunch (when the place was closed) and made a reservation for that evening. You can also reserve on their website.

They have Kaiseki lunch from 6K-25K, and dinner kaiseki from 7K-31K. No English spoken, even when we tried Google Translate on some things, so if you don’t feel comfortable choosing your dinner based on price point you might want help from your hotel.

This was good classic kaiseki, served in a private tatami room with chairs.

GIRO GIRO HITASHINA

Type: modern kaiseki with REASONABLE PRICE

Location: 〒600-8027 Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, 西木屋町 松原下難波420-7

Reservations: https://jpneazy.com/restaurants/183 (there is an upcharge. You can contact them directly by walking in or phoning, but if you do not speak Japanese well, just do the upcharge. ) Try to book the bar. It is much more fun to sit there.

Our first visit to Giro Giro many years ago impressed us so much we’ve been dreaming of it ever since. It is modern kaiseki. Since we have had a lot of traditional kaiseki, we really enjoyed seeing how the chef updated some traditional items. However, on this our second visit, some 15 years later, either the chef has slipped a bit or we’ve gotten harder to please.

Giro Giro is still a good choice if

1) you’ve never had kaiseki before and can’t afford one of the very expensive top reviewed kind or a stay in a ryokan with good food or

2) you’ve had plenty of kaiseki and want to see a twist on tradition.

This place is a bargain price-wise (5K yen–note we have Sasabune listed above that is about $16 more per person and is better quality, and Aoki listed above that is twice as much but superior quality), so if kaiseki in general is scaring you off with the big ticket menus, let Giro Giro be your kaiseki experience but if you can afford a smidge more go for one of the other places we have listed above.

JAPANESE CUISINE AOKI/日本料理 あお樹

Type: Kaiseki with reasonable price and superior everything.

Location: 440-5 Nishigomoncho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0816, Japan. On an alley off a street with maiko houses.

Website: MARKED PERMANENTLY CLOSED ON GOOGLE. HAVE YOUR HOTEL CALL.  https://villa-sound.kyoto.jp/

Phone: 0755324025

Reservations: required. He is a one-man operation and serves about 6 people a night. Also, for any kaiseki, there is a lot of prep that usually requires advanced reservation. No English spoken, so either go in person or have your hotel call.

This is an amazing kaiseki restaurant. We have eaten many a kaiseki dinner at all price points all over Japan and the world. This one gets our highest recommendation because every single dish was excellent (well-balanced, well-executed, often innovative, nicely presented), the atmosphere and service are superb, and the price–wow–10K yen (about $80 per person) for the low-end dinner? That’s a steal. We had 3 “go’s”/ small pitchers of sake also and the total bill for 2 of us was $188.

The chef was delightful and used Google Translate to help us understand each dish, and shared how he prepared some dishes we really loved.

This chef opened his restaurant a year ago. It is on an alley off a street with at least 3 maiko/ geisha houses–a really lovely street where you will want to take photos. We stayed several weeks on this block and saw maiko daily. Best time to see them is on a weeknight at about 5:30.

Now to the food!

• 1st course: the starter was a collection of 6 dishes. Steamed greens with wasabi and bonito, vinegared tomatoes, buckwheat and mushroom porridge, bamboo and nori –not tofu but something similar, preserved firefly squid and yuba (tofu skin. I love yuba and his was great!)

• 2nd course: my favorite! this was a pea soup with a shrimp dumpling/cake. Look at the photo I uploaded. It tasted as pretty as it looked. Perfect balance of flavors.

• 3rd course: blowfish/ fugu. We were here in fugu season (early March). It’s great. There is no need to worry about eating fugu if you are with a trained chef.

• 4th course: grilled monkfish/anko. It was marinated in soy sauce and mirin and sake, and we grilled it ourselves (with the chef’s advice)

• 5th course: steamed sea bream with ginger on red rice. Red bean rice is served for auspicious occasions.

• 6th course: duck with several types of wheat gluten. This was my husband’s favorite dish.

• 7th course: miso + Takikomi gohan (rice steamed with fish) with clam. PERFECT. PROBABLY THE BEST RICE DISH I HAD IN JAPAN. Ok, using clam in anything can tend to be fishy, and fish steamed with rice can tend to make the rice fishy. There was nothing fishy about this dish. We usually don’t have seconds on rice, especially at such a large/long multicourse meal, but this was so good we had to. (And when you get seconds then you have the crispy rice from the bottom of the hot pot–extra yum.) The flavors here were just perfectly balanced with clam, rice, aromatic greens. Miso also great–mild and not too salty with eggplant and other yummies.

• 8th course: dessert trio was gold medal winner. Shiso sorbet, buckwheat pudding, and sakura mochi.

Tofu and Soy-Centered Restaurants

Umenohana

Type: special occasion, yuba and tofu-focused

Location: 〒604-8134 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, 六角北東角 ウエスト18ビル B1F

and elsewhere around the country

Website: https://umenohana-restaurant.co.jp/n_english/

On our first trip to Japan together, a local who helped us when we were lost suggested Umenohana for dinner. It remains one of our favorite food experiences in Japan. Umenohana is a chain, so if you end up in another part of the country, do look them up. Reservations are required post-COVID. You choose one of many set menus online; we recommend the one with the little drawers, because eating out of drawers is fun. They are also known for their yuba, which you cook yourself at the table, minimum order for 2.

The restaurant specializes in tofu, though they also serve wonderful sashimi, grilled fish and meat. We highly recommend the yuba, which the waitstaff will teach you to cook at your table. Then you season it with ginger, citrus, and soy sauce as you like.

They describe themselves as a place people come to celebrate birthdays and other special moments. Umenohana also prides itself on the aesthetics of the dining room and food presentation (it is lovely) and on sourcing their vegetables from organic growers.

Yuba Cuisine Higashiyama Yumame

Type: set meals specializing in soy-based menu

website: https://higashiyamayuuzu.com/tenpo/

Location: 570-218 Gion-cho Minamigawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture

Reservations: by phone or Tablelog

This restaurant specializes in Yuba, which is tofu skin. They have set menus at lunch and dinner plus an a la carte selection. Reservations advised. We walked in at lunch at 11 and they had no space. We got a reservation for the same night though

This was a great meal at a good price. 5k yen for the fish- based set meal

1st course included Yuba several ways, lovely veggies several ways and a slice of beef

2nd course : fried Yuba and mixed green salad, poached white fish and fried yuba in soy mirin broth, tempura sesame tofu -- one of the most delicious things that can be tempuraed, and a bean with Sakura salt

3 rd course : Hot pot of chicken and daikon in shiro miso broth. Green onions pour a small shot of soy milk in.

4 th course: Rice , egg plus Yuba and wasabi ( mix) dump on egg. Decadent. Okura miso-- soybean pulp and miso to add to eggs

Sake kasu Cheesecake -- fabulous. If you'd like to try making it yourself, see our Recipes page here.

Super friendly service and a nice neighborhood

Saga Tofu Morika 嵯峨豆腐 森嘉

Website: https://www.sagatofu-morika.co.jp/

Location: 42 Sagashakadofujinokicho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 616-8447, Japan

Storefront only/ take-away. Allergens clearly listed in Japanese.

Tempura

TOMINOKOJI TEMPURA MATSUI

Location: a few blocks from Nishiki Market at 〒604-8074 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Asakuracho, 540 富小路マンション 1階

Reservations: https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260202/26033471/ There will be an upcharge for using tablelog, but it allows you to reserve online and in English. If you prefer, you can go in person to the restaurant and make a reservation without added charge (or call, if you can speak Japanese).

Notes: Tominokoji Tempura Matsui is an excellent tempura restaurant pretty close to Nishiki market. We happened in at lunch and were lucky to grab 3 seats. There are only 9 seats total, so it is best to make reservations. If you want the set meal, you must reserve in advance. Since we had not reserved the set menu, we ordered one of 4 ten-don options (items over rice). One of us got the vegetarian and the other 2 got the "mix" which included both eel and shrimp. These sets ran 900-2000 yen per person, which is a great price. This tempura is so superior that you don't really think it's been fried. It is totally not greasy at all, not even a bit. All the items were perfectly cooked and slightly toothsome when that was called for (like in lotus root). The chef dresses the ten-don with sauce and shichimi pepper, and gives you salt to dip yourself if you like.

TEMPURA YOSHIOKA

Location: 〒600-8083 Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Nishimaecho, 377-4

Reservations: Walk in and ask for a reservation. Limited English is spoken so use your Googletranslate. You will likely need a reservation for this place, since it's only 6 seats. Our first try at walk-in he was "full" so we made a reservation for a few nights later. We were the only diners from 6-8 pm, so in theory maybe you could walk in early in the night? But it's just as likely he needs reservations in order to plan the meal.

Notes:

There were 16 lovely dishes in our set menu. We had 300ml sake and tea also and the bill for 2 was 13,500 yen. That is a great deal. We paid as much for a sub-par ten-don bowl in the train station when we needed a fast meal.

This was masterful tempura. You taste the food and not the oil and the batter is light. What the chef chose to cook reflected the fresh ingredients of the season, including several fishes we'd never had, or never had as tempura. Everything was excellent and we felt really special being the only ones in the restaurant for two hours! We had the full attention of the chef!

In addition to tempura, there was a chawanmushi (savory egg custard) starter, a fresh salad midway through, and a fruit dessert. These non-tempura items were the perfect balance to the fried foods (and are customary in formal tempura meals).

GION TEMPURA TENSOU

Location: in the Gion @ 570-119 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0074

Reservations are required--it's a small place. It is in the Gion, and an area with other super special restaurants (a Michelin starred place is across the street) This alone means more demand, but also you will need a reservation as they do one seating for lunch and one for dinner and a max of 8 people each seating.

Website: http://gion-tensou.jp

Notes: This place was a tad more expensive than Tempura Yoshioka, but we could see that this was not just for the fancier atmosphere. Everything was super fresh and big, and there were well-planned extra finishes for many dishes.  We went here twice: once for dinner and once for lunch.

This is a next-level tempura restaurant. 

We got the 10-item tempura dinner course which is the cheapest at 13k yen. There were a total of 16 dishes. Honestly, I could not have eaten more!! We returned for lunch and chose the smallest course again. Lunch was excellent but if you can visit here only once and can afford 13K yen, we recommend dinner instead. Some of the extra touches they do at dinner are not there at lunch (but some are).

What made this next level is not only were the ingredients super fresh and plump -- other great tempura places that we’d rate at the top were also very fresh-- and the batter very light/ not oily, but everything here was a little bigger or sweeter or they finished many items with a sophistication that other places don't do. The scallop-- huge--finished with ikura and wasabi. A piece of gobo-- which is an earthy root-- finished with sweet soy sauce drizzle. White fish with seaweed spread. And the sweet potato -- omg. Two pieces for me to dip in salt and the other 2 he finished with sugar and brandy. Mmmm.

On the last dish we had three choices. Sarah got #3, tendon, with egg. The egg was soft scrambled with some of the tendon sauce making it a sweet topper for an amazing kakiage. Dan got #1 which was fermented tea -- a bowl of tea with rice in it and the kakiage to dip. The other choice was soba in soup with the kakiage to dip

Our dessert was a coffee gelee and fruit. Other diners with bigger meal sets got matcha tea and mochi for dessert.

The ambiance is modern Japanese, sleek and lively. The service is impeccable. They kept my water glass full and worked hard to translate the ingredients into English, and the chef gave each diner special attention.Upon leaving, they will bow you out, as all restaurants will, but also they offered to take our photo out front and then gave us the formal goodbye (when you get about half a block away, or before you turn the corner, turn around and bow to him as he is waiting. Read more on restaurant etiquette on our main Japanese food page.)

CURRY

KYO-MACHIYA KYOTO SHIJO KUON

Type: Curry and Udon Noodles. Also tempura.

Location: 〒604-8223 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Komusubidanacho, 420 東側

Website: Tabelog page; Instagram

Holy moley this was great curry. This is curry worth traveling for. Dan loves Japanese curry but Sarah is not a huge fan--at least she wasn't until this place. The keema curry is amazing. The udon noodles are tasty and perfect and chewy. The restaurant has an English menu. Basically, you have 2 main choices: noodles hot or cold and broth of bonito or soy milk. Both broths were good but the bonito is outstanding.Then you can choose add ons:

Tempura--tempura banana yes, get this. It is sweet and creamy. Kakiage only comes with the "special" set and is not always available. Other tempura was fine, but not the star at this restaurant.

Toppings--fried mochi is great. It's warm and chewy and the curry sticks nicely to it.

Sauteed Vegetables set--this is wonderful! The veggies were still toothsome and perfectly salted.

All sets come with egg rice which is a perfect ending. Sarah liked to mix the egg and the rice together. Other diners like to add the curry and/or the broth.

Lunch lines are long. We went for dinner on a weeknight and seating was no problem. We went for dinner on a Saturday night and waited about 5 min in line; things move pretty fast. They have seats upstairs and downstairs.

YAKI

SUMI-YAKI TORIKOU

Type: grilled skewers

Website: https://www.torikou.net/?utm_source=google-mybusiness&utm_medium=referral

Location: 47‐2 Shioyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8247, Japan

Notes: This place books up every night. Ask for a reservation about a week ahead and note that for us it was easier to get in on a Friday night than a weeknight.

• Sumi yaki means charcoal grilled. Here's what we had from the grill:

  • Moist chicken with various dressing options

  • Mushrooms flavored with butter and the grill smoke

  • Chicken meatball dipped in raw egg yolk, radish and mustard

• One thing that is unique from other izakayas is the lovely charcoal flavor on the food. The tofu and mushroom especially showed this off.

7450 yen for tons of food for 2 and 2x 180 ml of sake ( about $60 total)

IKKAKUJU-- SHIJO SHIMMACHI

Type: okonomiyaki, other "yakis" and izakaya. Gluten free options.

Location: 604-8223 kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Komusubidanacho, 435 (Floor 1)

Website: ikkakujyu-shinmachi.gorp.jp

Notes: This izakaya serves many different types of yaki--okonomiyaki (lots of cabbage and usually seafood or meats of your choice mixed into just enough pancake-type batter to hold it together), negiyaki, and rikyu-yaki.

The chef has invented a wonderful take on okonomiyaki that is yuba based and gluten-free. The usual fillings are wrapped like a burrito inside a big sheet of yuba (tofu skin), grilled nicely, and topped with soy milk sauce and dried yuba. It is fabulous.

We went back for lunch a second day and got the Butadama a.k.a. okonomiyaki (normally 800Yen and on the 10th of each month discounted to 500 Yen) and rikyu-yaki (lots of onions in a thin bottom pancake with tomatoes and seafood topping it). The former was a great version of okonomiyaki and the latter was a delicious change, kind of like an Italian-Japanese food fusion.

The prices are great: at about 1,500 yen, or $12, two people were well-fed. The hot tea is free.

OBANZAI and IZAKAYA

SHUNSAI IMARI

Type: Obanzai/izakaya--breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Location: 108 Nishirokkakucho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8217

Reservations: required for breakfast as they only serve 30 people per day; advised for dinner but we did ok walking in. More about breakfast under our breakfast category at the bottom of this page.

Website: kyoto-imari.com

This was amazing. The restaurant was recommended by our Airbnb host as a good place to get obanzai breakfast. We noticed it was open for dinner and walked in without a problem. The dinner was so good we asked to make a reservation for breakfast the next day--only to find out they would close for a winter break for a week. Good thing we are in Kyoto for a month! 

For dinner, we ordered a lot of food and 2 x 180 ml sakes and the total bill was $55Breakfast was tasty--one of the best Japanese breakfasts we had in Kyoto. 

The salmon was moist and well flavored. The vegetables were tasty (eggplant and separate greens--it is February). The miso soup was a mild good flavor with plenty of vegetables. Tea and rice rounded it out, plus pickles.

In the photos with the chefs (at left) you can see there are bowls of food along the counter. This is typical of obanzai restaurants; they have all the salads and sides on display like this. In the first photo at left, our obanzai choices in lots of little dishes, with pickles.

NAKASHIMAYA

Type: izakaya/obanzai

Location: 115番地 Butsukōji Higashimachi, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8054, Japan

Website: https://ouchigohan-nakashimaya.com/space/

In theory, it is possible to walk in and snag a table, but they usually book up so we suggest you reserve.

Potato salad w crab 5/5 Eggplant and herring 5/5 Namafu in dashi 5/5 Sashimi--very good Yuba -- excellent Corn tempura. Wow. 5/5 Duck wasabi. Wow. 5/5

 Desserts were good too.

Other photos: Obanzai on a ring plate. Our neighbor asked for "sashimi one person"-- and they gave her an omakase selection of 5 fishes (this is not on the menu)

Everything was very well-seasoned. You can taste the ingredients, all fresh, all good blends of flavors. We had some great Obanzai in Kyoto and this might be the best because the balance of flavors was top-notch on every single choice.

The service also put this place at the top of our experiences. The chef speaks great English and is totally charming in English and Japanese. We came here twice during our stay; the second time we had 4 in our party and we begged them to let us reserve at the chef’s counter, even though they usually put parties of 4 at tables elsewhere.

TSUKITOKAGE

Type: Izakaya/Obanzai

Website: https://tsukitokage-honten.com/shinmachi_top.html

Location: 108 Machigashiracho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8206, Japan

This place is literally 3 doors from our first Airbnb. It's a neighborhood spot with 10 seats around the chef and several tables in the back and upstairs. When we were there, the other 8 seats in front were filled with a father and son, a husband and wife, 2x 20-something women, and 2 x 30-something women--so a much different vibe than some of the places where only crowds of salarymen gather.

The tempura was good. The sashimi specials are on the wall for you to google translate. The starter appetizer was a yummy potato salad. (Potato salad is a thing in all izakayas so we made a habit of comparing them.) We finished with udon and rice with egg. Both were good. The egg was runny inside and the outside fried into a purse to hold the yolk Very cool looking and the whole thing was salted just right. For sake, there is a larger menu they can give you, though google translate had trouble reading it and the waitstaff's recommendation was a good choice. (We asked for one from Kyoto). The father/son next to us ordered oden (winter-only organ meat stew) and a small dish of skate fin; they said both were very good.

Ishikawa Tempura & Obanzai 天ぷら おばんざい いしかわ

Website: https://okazuya-ishikawa.com/tempura/

Location: (230-4 Shinmeicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8092, Japan) Lovely and tasty izakaya. You start with an obanzai set of 5 dishes, picking three from bowls on the counter, plus a sashimi course. Then you can pick individual dishes. There were a lot of interesting items such as ankimo (monkfish liver) with daikon, green onion and a jellied ponzu, which cut the richness of the liver nicely; a green onion and meat roll tempura; tempura Brussels sprouts with tiny fish, yuba and dengaku in a white miso soup. Smoking is permitted but nobody else was there in this 10-seat izakaya (plus a private room upstairs) on a Monday at 5:30 PM. Very modern vibe outside and in.

ごはんや 蜃気楼 / GOHANYA SHINKIRŌ

Website: http://mrmd.co.jp/shinkiro/

Location: Japan, 〒605-0801 Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, Miyagawasuji, 6−361in the Gion, one block off of a street where Maiko can be seen most nights at about 5:30 and then later (end of work night).

We arrived at 6pm with no reservation. They warned us we might have to wait for our food as there were many orders ahead (no wait though for our first courses and very prompt service). We were put upstairs in a tatami room. Lovely. No shoes at this place btw and upstairs is floor seating. Downstairs is chairs at the bar you can get a Kaiseki set or pick and choose. The menu is laid out Kaiseki style. We chose on our own.

• Yuba– yum

• Little fish with Sansho Sashimi ( the day’s selection was one fish not multiple types)

• Tofu salad– nice mix

• Broiled salmon with miso and fresh greens : 5/5

• Yuzu chicken with greens– it’s ok.

• Wheat gluten in dashi — great

• Hot green tea soba

• Rice with sea bream

English menu and English-speaking staff.

RAMEN/UDON

MEN-YA INOICHI HANARE/ 麺屋 猪一 離れ --RAMEN

Location: Japan, 〒600-8076 Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Senshojicho, 463 ルネ丸高 1F

Reservations: nope. Expect to wait 1hr + unless you are the first 10-12 in line. (See the typical line in photos below)

Website: https://inoichi.stores.jp/

SUBA

Location: 182-10 Minoyacho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8015, Japan

Type: soup; casual; no reservations. Low wait times.

Website: https://www.instagram.com/subasoba/?utm_medium=copy_link

This is a stand up restaurant for soba in hot soup. Good. Fast. Cheap. We liked the tempura chrysanthemum greens best.

On the tables are water and cups, plus a bowl of the fried leavings from all the tempura they make, in case you need a little more fat in your diet. Without these crunchy extras the soup base is flavorful and not fatty or too salty.

Unagi

One of our apartments was right around the corner from this unagi maker (the name translates as Riverfish Notomasa) in Higashiyama ward. They grill the unagi every day and sell it in various ways, including bentos. The unagi was delicious with a nice grilled flavor, and the small-sized unagi-don is 1300 yen. If you are near here, it's a good spot.

If you are not near this place but want grab-and-go unagi, just be on the lookout for eel sellers in residential neighborhoods and shopping areas. Note that they often sell out by 1pm.

Unagi is a reliable dish in Japan. The worst unagi in Japan tastes better than 99% of the unagi in the USA. Unagi restaurants identify themselves with an eel on their signs. What they offer is pretty standard: choose the size and the grade of eel you would like. We usually ask for the middle size, middle quality. The other variation you might see is with broth, in which case the set meal pictured at right will have a little teapot added to it. You add the broth to the eel and rice to make ochazuke.

SUSHI and other RAW FISH

Every izakaya has good sashimi. We tend not to select sushi restaurants while in Japan so the list here is small. In cities with ports, always look for donburi (raw fish on rice) near the water.

TEMARI SUSHI & JAPANESE TEA SOUDA

Type: Sushi bentos and Tea tastings:

Website: https://www.c-e-p.co.jp/s_t-souden.html

Address: 〒604-8206 110-1 Shinmachi-dori Sanjo Agaru Machitocho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi

Literally 2 doors away from our first apartment

OTHER

Paris/Kyoto Cafe near the Philosopher's Walk

CAFE BRIEZH

Type: crepe; buckwheat crepes; French-Japanese fusion

Location: near Philosopher's Path and Eikendo Temple, 24-3 Wakaojicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City

Website: https://le-bretagne.com/creperie/kyoto/Notes: We dined at this restaurant twice when in Paris and loved the buckwheat crepes. We were walking along the Philosopher's Path from Gingakugi towards Eikendo Temple, and surprised ourselves in passing the Kyoto location of this chain.

The buckwheat crepes are wonderful. The Japanese location has a crepe version that presents like sushi: everything rolled in a crepe and then sliced into sushi-roll sized pieces.

Sagan https://www.sagankyoto.com/ Mostly Western foods with a Japanese spin. Baked goods as well. (Japan, 〒605-0813 Kyoto, Higashiyama Ward, Rokurocho, 二丁目93)

BREAKFAST

Hotels have simple or buffet breakfasts, and sometimes you can eat at the hotel if you are not a guest. Business hotels tend not to accept outside guests, and their offerings are usually a basic miso, rice, pickles, and perhaps some fish. Buffets often include both Japanese and Western dishes, and sometimes Chinese as well.

Provisions for breakfast in your apartment or hotel are easily purchased in the basement of all major department stores, in grocery stores, and at neighborhood eel shops. We tend to get cut fruits, tofu and yogurt at the supermarket, and prepared vegetables and egg dishes in the department stores.

Japanese breakfasts beyond hotels are worth seeking out. We have a few listed below.

Rokkaku Kitchen 109

SHUNSAI IMARI

Location: 108 Nishirokkakucho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8217

Reservations: required for breakfast as they only serve 30 people per day; advised for dinner but we did ok walking in.

Website: kyoto-imari.com

Roji Usagi https://rojiusagi.com/

SWEETS

Meigetsudo 名月堂 (447-1 Nishigomoncho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0816, Japan) The selection changes daily and with the seasons, but a hint at what you will find is explained on their website here: https://www.eonet.ne.jp/~kyougashiya/meigetudou.htm When we visited during the spring, Sakura Mochi is a highly prized item and this place had the best rendition by far. You can see it wrapped in a leaf at far left.

Tayaki

There is tayaki everywhere, but the GOOD ones are crispy outside and a good consistency inside. We like the chain Naruto Taiyaki, which can be found throughout Kyoto and Japan. They have 3 regular flavors: custard, sweet potato, and red bean. Look for the logo featured below and don't be fooled by imitations. That said, we have on rare occasion found taiyaki made by small, independent shops that were good (such as this one in Hakodate); look for a crispy exterior though, or you will be disappointed.