Nagasaki: 9 Things To Do plus Food and Arita day trip
- Next Stage Travel
- Jan 14
- 13 min read
This is a great city for museums, shopping (including antiques!), rich history, and lovely walks.
We were based near the JR station which has many malls all around it and easy transport by bus or tram everywhere in the city.
If you arrive at the port (on a cruise) or are near the port, there is a bus stop very close that gives excellent instructions in English and offers an all-day pass for 600 yen. Each bus trip is a minimum of 190 yen, so the pass is a good deal.
Up the hill from the port is the Glover Garden which is an easy walk. Dejima is also worth seeing and is close. Beyond that, we recommend a different neighborhood. See under “shopping” below.
City Culture and History Museum
The Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture (1 Chome-1-1 Tateyama, Nagasaki, 850-0007, Japan. Open daily 8:30 AM - 6:00 PM. 630 yen pp.) covers the history of Nagasaki from the 16th century to today, with a focus on Nagasaki’s role as one of the few (and at times only) Japanese cities that permitted access to foreign trade. There are significant influences from China, Korea, Portugal, the Netherlands and England on Nagasaki food and culture. This museum also tracks the entry of Christianity, subsequent banning of Christianity for 250 years and the ‘rediscovery’ of hidden Christians, who mostly practiced in small towns in Nagasaki prefecture.
The museum has several rooms dedicated to various crafts of Nagasaki, many incorporating European designs or made for European markets. Crafts including metalwork, glass and many types of ceramics are shown. There are also several shops on the museum grounds with artisans making tortoiseshell jewelry, ceramics and glass ware that you can purchase.
Finally, a life-size replica of an Edo-period magistrate (governor) house has been built on the second floor. It’s interesting to roam the rooms, which have various exhibits.
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, National Peace Memorial Hall and Sanno Shrine
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum (7-8 Hiranomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8117, Japan. Open daily 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM. 200 yen pp.) This museum covers the history of Nagasaki prior, during and after the atomic bomb explosion and includes a memorial to all the people who died.
It is an important and well-done museum and memorial (National Peace Memorial Hall 7-8 Hiranomachi, Nagasaki, 852-8117, Japan. Open daily 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM. Free) The memorial, next to the museum, has a large water feature which reminded us of the 9/11 memorial in NYC.
A significant difference is that the Japanese version invokes a constant call for peace and hopeful reminder that such events should never happen again.
On the way to the Atomic bomb museum, we stopped at a small shrine (Sanno Shinto shrine 2 Chome-6 Sakamoto, Nagasaki, 852-8102, Japan. (The one-legged torii is located at 1 Chome-5 Sakamoto, Nagasaki, 852-8102, Japan on the way to Sannon Shrine). Open daily 24 hours/day. Free.; this link provides some additional history) that has remnants of the explosion - a one-leg tori and 2 camphor trees that were thought dead but regrew. It was a nice place to visit and contemplate the damage but also the rebirth after the destruction.
Glover Garden and Museum of Local Culture
Glover Garden.( 8-1 Minamiyamatemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0931, Japan. Open daily 8 AM - 8 PM. 620 yen pp).Not really a garden but more of an historical village where you can see architecture and some furnishings of Westerners who lived in Japan during industrialization. Japanese often dress up in rented kimonos when visiting historical sites, but here the rentals are Western outfits from the early 1900s
As you leave Glover Garden, there is a small free museum of local culture where they store the floats used in the annual October celebration (Nagasaki Kunchi Festival). There is a video showing the event, or you can plan your trip for mid-October and see the real thing (dates and description in one of the images below, and the link above)
Dejima
Dejima means 'exit island' and was the sole residential area for non-Japanese traders (primarily Portuguese and then Dutch). It was originally an island; at one point, landfill connected it to the rest of Nagasaki. (Address: 6 Dejimamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0862, Japan. Open daily 8 AM - 9 PM. 520 yen pp.)
This is a complex with historical buildings preserved and/or rebuilt. The homes are especially interesting if you are already familiar with Japanese traditional architecture, because here you can see Western European touches— wallpaper, furniture, and larger room sizes to name a few. There is also history here about industrialization which is good if you don’t have time to visit other city museums.
In this same area is a good sake brewery - Dejima Hosendo (5-24 Dejimamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0862, Japan.) Open Thursday - Monday 1 - 8 PM. Flights and individual tastes from about 500 yen to 400 yen. Cash only.
They make “doburuki” which is an old style of nigori sake (unfiltered sake that is generally sweeter than regular, filtered sake). It can be produced in a smaller space because the sake is not pressed out of the rice mash. They also make amazake, which is a non alcoholic drink made from the leftovers from sake production.
The brewery has simple tastings by the glass or 6 seats at the counter for flight tastings with added food. This is a husband and wife team, and the wife speaks fluent English.
We thought all the types we tried were very good to great. You can request more sweet or dry brews and she will accommodate.
Chinatown
Shinichi Chinatown: Skip this. It’s about 3 blocks, and the only shoppers are tourists and a handful of students buying snacks. There is nothing on the street actually used by the Chinese in Japan; it is purely a tourist destination. The food is not varied or much different from Chinese food elsewhere in the city and the souvenir shops are forgettable.
Mt Inasa and Park
Inasayama Park and Mt. Inasa (Japan, 〒852-8011 Nagasaki, Ohamamachi, 364 稲佐山公園. Open 9 AM - 10 PM daily. Ropeway to the summit 1250 yen pp roundtrip.)
The view of the city is incredible, and unlike other vistas such as the Glover Garden, you can also clearly see the ocean side with small islands.
This mountain is famed for the night view. We visited during the day in December and had the whole place to ourselves. There was a lone restaurant, but it is now closed, changed to a patisserie open nightly from 5-9 pm.
There are several routes to the top. There is a long ropeway (1250 yen roundtrip) to the top, and then you can take a short slope railway (500 yen roundtrip) to Inasayama Park, which is near but not at the summit. You can also drive to the summit (There are parking lots at the top, at the ropeway and at the slope car). Additionally there are stairs, if you like long, uphill climbs...
If you come on foot for the ropeway, enter at the shrine steps. The shrine is adjacent to the ropeway station. In April and Ma,y there are azaleas in bloom and in the summertime, they have concerts.
Temples
There is a string of temples and shrines east of downtown Nagasaki, including Sofuku-ji, Chosho-ji, Daiko-ji, Hosshin-ji, Sanmon, Kotaiji, and Kofuku-ji. Interspersed between these temples are various cemeteries.
This temple was established by a group of Chinese traders who had moved to Nagasaki (see one of the photos below for more detail).
This Nichiren Buddhist temple was founded in 1631.
Megane Bridge and Nearby Antiques and Shopping
Megane Bridge (Meganebashi) (Uonomachi, Nagasaki, 850-0874, Japan. Open 24 hours/day. Free.)
The reflection of the bridge in the water makes circles, since there are two arches on the bridge, it makes two circles looking like glasses. It is also called the “spectacle bridge”. While walking the path along the river here we also saw many small freshwater puffer fish.
Almost directly across the street from the bridge is an antique shop, Wengutang or Wengu Hall Art and Antiques (温古堂). It’s the kind that’s super full of stuff and at least 1/4 of the store is inaccessible even to the owner, who, we suspect, enjoys playing games with friends more than actually selling. We bought a bonitobushi slicing box for 1000 yen and a Burmese laquered horsehair bowl for 2000 yen
Nearby shopping areas include
Allcore Naka st - lots of interesting food, restaurants, another antique shop, a hot sand spa, and cute boutiques. Google mapping "Allcore Naka Street" will put you approximately in the middle of this several-block--long pedestrian shopping area.
Hot sand spa: 酵素浴ヒュッゲ hygge. (〒850-0873 Nagasaki, Suwamachi, 6−15 6番15)
Antique store Baba Kottōhinten 馬場骨董店 (9-3 Suwamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0873)
More of a curated selection than the other 2 stores we visited.
Other Shopping--Antiques, Groceries, Department Store and More
Shianbashi St (this is a Google map link about midway down one alley) - 2 narrow parallel streets primarily filled with izakayas and bars that open after 6 PM.
Bellenade Kanko St - covered arcade with various stores and several department stores (e.g., Hamaya)
Hamaya Department Store, 7-11 Hamamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0853
In addition to the usual department store items, the basement has a large selection of grab-and-go food, including groceries ( good souvenirs), an Umenohana tofu-based store (yum), a good pickle place that gives samples, and all manner of sashimi, sushi, other bentos and salads.
Antiques: map to the Lawson here (10-10 Hamamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0853) as the antique store itself is 2 doors down on the same side and had no address. This spot had a good selection of obi in many price ranges, other kimono accessories, hairpins, dishes, and much more. We bought 2 obi and 1 silk piece that is meant for one of the kimono belts but we plan on using as a scarf.
Tsukimachi Shopping St: Just on the other side of the Nakashima river, this area has grocery shopping for locals. We went to Nakasima (Nakajimiya main store) in search of whole dried bonito for our new bonito slicer. We found it here and the store owner told us about his main business, which is making specialty dashi at a factory about 30 minutes away. The dashi is just pure fish— no additives. He has 2 tuna based ones which is unusual, plus flying fish (regional specialty), vegetarian, and others. We got three different types. The store also had yogurt from Hokkaido which we snapped up. No corn syrup, lots of probiotics and creamy flavor. If you see any Hokkaido yogurts made without corn syrup, you must try.
More shopping at the train station area and AMU Shopping Mall (two buildings next to train station)
There are several large shopping complexes near and in the train station, including a restaurant arcade, plenty of confection shops, and lots of mall shopping.
Hotels:
we stayed at the Nagasaki Marriott next to the train station. It has an amazing view and attentive staff, and the rooms are brand new and large. The breakfast is very expensive and not really better than other hotel breakfasts, and we saw guests waiting to get in when the breakfast room was full. The hotel has a lot of western clients and no public bath. They also have chocolates for sale at a hefty markup; downstairs in the mall is the actual chocolatier outpost for less with a larger selection
If you want a cheaper option that’s still nice, there are many business hotels in the area. Look for those that offer a public bath if you would like this quintessential Japanese experience.
Food
Tofu
Tofu Cuisine Rokuyata 豆富料理 六弥太 (35-60 Yukimachi, Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Prefecture, 852-8035. Phone 095-848-7739) This is quite close to the Science Museum.
This is so delicious, and it is in a classic Japanese building.
The tofu is rich and creamy. We had the largest lunch set and it had several tykes of tofu including yuba. Namafu dengaku for dessert is so yummy.
The appetizer plate was perfectly balanced with salty fish cake, sweet beans and potato, and sour topping on mountain yam
Dessert: a mousse and soy drink
Not all items are vegetarian. We suspect that the miso is vegetarian. We suspect that the dumplings have a fish roe filling. In the appetizers, there were 2 cakes we think were fish
There are 2 x western chair tables, several traditional low chairs and some tatami mat only
Japanese menu only, and no English spoken. We got the largest set that translated to "all the dishes". There wasn't one item that was sub par.
It was about a 20 min walk from the Peace Museum and in the same blocks as the science museum. It is 20 min by bus from the JR station
Yakitori
Torimasa Honten 鳥政 本店 (大黒町8-2 2F Nagasaki, 長崎県 〒850-0057 Japan)
Excellent spot! A good test of a yakitori chef is something simple like mushrooms. If they just skewer and cook, that's disappointing. This guy makes mushrooms that are juicy and bring out all the flavor.
We also had ginkgo nuts ( on the special menu for the night)
Mochi Nasu-- like agadashi tofu but with the chewy rice instead of tofu
Chicken meatball
Chicken breast with wasabi
Chicken breast with yuzu pepper ( spicy)
Beef
Smelt
Garlic--peel it out of the skin and eat with salt
We also had sake and the whole bill was under $20 per person.
Reservations are possible on their website. We walked in at 6:30 on a weeknight but it's always good to be safe and secure a reservation if you can. An English menu is available for the regular items. Use google translate for the specials on the board
Near the train station.
Train station Izakaya
Tempura
天ぷら処 夢風Tempura Restaurant Yumekaze ( 〒850-0904 Nagasaki, Funadaikumachi, 5−27 銀河第４ビル ２階奥) --note it is on the second floor and see the photo for the entry, as the Googlemaps photos are wrong.
We love good tempura and this is just the type of place that makes us so happy. It's a small shop, with one guy who really knows how to do tempura. The service is refined but not fussy. The foods reflect the season. Dinner took 2 hours and cost 6300 yen a person. Make reservations. Your hotel can help. Here's what we had:
Shiitake
Fugu
Lotus Pike fish ( hamo ) with plum sauce Matsutake mushroom Sea urchin with shiso Ginkgo ( not tempura) Muscles Lily flower bulb -- this is a special winter food. It is starchy Oyster-- inside it was still soft and you can taste the sea Tiger shrimp Yuzu sorbet Rice and miso soup The chef uses a mix of oils including camellia which is easier on the stomach.
He speaks good English and asks about allergens and preferences. He is a sake sommelier and has a good selection. You can see the one we picked in the photos, with a blue arrow. The restaurant is on the second floor. It's a few doors down from the Marine Hotel and next door to a Chinese restaurant
Set lunch near shopping
大衆割烹 樋口 築町店 Higuchi Tsukimachi Store (2F, Nagasaki, 長崎県 〒850-0031, Japan)
This was a great spot for excellent food at a good price. Refined atmosphere and Japanese only-- so google translate.
This is in an area with good shopping. They have set lunches with your choice of karage chicken, tempura, sashimi, and other meats. It's served along with several appetizer-sized dishes.
We had:
Karashi renkon -- lotus stuffed with mustard, a regional specialty and done well here
Green Salad with sweet potato and prosciutto
Wheat gluten
Savory stewed pumpkin
Marinated greens salad
Special fried chicken that's marinated and twice fried. Often served with a vinegar sauce When it's good it's sooooo good and this is good!
Sashimi--excellent quality
Pickles -- good
Chicken rice. The rice is cooked in broth. It's topped with ground chicken and shredded egg. There are some burdock pieces as well. After letting it sit 2 minutes, top with finely shredded pickled ginger. This was amazing.
Dessert : sweet potato gelato, pumpkin cheesecake and grapes
We had the most expensive set @2300 yen ($15 in 2025). Most sets are 1500-1800
They can accommodate larger groups but do reserve. They have different types of seating also with some bar seats that are especially nice for single diners
For 2 people on a Tuesday at 1 pm we had no trouble walking in with no reservation
Famous Chawan Mushi
Original Chawanmushi YOSSOU 元祖茶碗むし 吉宗 本店 (8-9 Hamamachi, Nagasaki, 850-0853 Nagasaki, 長崎県 〒850-0853 Japan)
This is in the same shopping area as the previous review for set lunch near shopping.
We recommend trying the Chawan mushi but the rest is average.
The ambiance is old world Japan, with all tatami (so no shoes) but some chairs and some floor seating. There is also seating on the first floor for single diners.
If you are near this shopping area (which has covered streets of shops plus at least one large department store) try this place!
Chawan mushi is a savory custard made of egg and dashi. It is served widely in Japan at any meal. Yossou is 150 years old-- famous for their Chawan mushi. It was quite good with shrimp, chicken, eel, fish cake, and ginkgo in it.
We had the classic set meal. It adds a "steamed sushi" bowl which was grated fish cake and egg on rice.We didn't care for this, but every other group in the restaurant got the a la carte version of just steamed sushi and Chawan mushi.
The set also had a chunk of meat-- it was good and I think pork.
The set also had some tough fish with sauce, good pickles, and so ok fish cake, mushroom, and potato. There was a small bean paste that was good, and a not-sweet orange.
Ordering is easy on a tablet at the table, which allows you to choose English.
There is a store around the corner selling kits for Chawan mushi-- same owner.
Day trip from Nagasaki: Arita
Arita was the first place in Japan to produce fine porcelain. When the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu withdrew the Japanese forces from a Korean invasion in 1598, he also brought back a number of Korean artisans. Many of the ceramicists ended up in Kyushu (specifically Saga prefecture) and several of them helped identify the first porcelain rock quarry which helped make fine-quality porcelain. Initially copying Chinese designs and techniques, the ceramic families that arose around Arita made items initially for domestic use and then, when China had a civil war and stopped exporting, started exporting large quantities via the Dutch East Indies company and later various European and American exporters.
We visited the Kyushu Ceramic museum and learned about the history and techniques of porcelain in Japan. Free but the special exhibit is 800 yen pp. At the time we went the special exhibition was on early Imari-yaki.
We then meandered slowly down route 281, the main street in town, lined with ceramic shops, cafes and old houses. Note that more shops and cafes are open Friday through Sunday. We were in Arita on a Wednesday; there were plenty of shops open just not all of them.
Along route 281, we stopped at Tozan shrine, dedicated to porcelain. Even the large Torii at the entrance of the main temple is made of porcelain.
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