Winnipeg, Churchill, and the Northern Lights
- Next Stage Travel
- 2 days ago
- 8 min read
Yes, folks, we finally took a tour instead of adventuring on our own. It was the right move as both the location and the activity benefited greatly from local experienced guides and access. We went with Natural Habitat Adventures, specifically their Northern Lights and Artic Exploration tour.
Getting to Churchill requires 2 days by train or a 2 hour flight. Going with a tour meant we had a chartered flight that made the most of time and ensured weather issues didn't ruin a vacation.
Staying in Churchill requires advanced planning. There are very few hotels here. In the summer they are booked 100% by tour groups (for polar bear viewing) . In the winter you could probably find a spot on your own. We describe everything we did below, partially to describe the various activities we did on the tour, but also help you assemble your own Churchill/Northern Lights trip, if you prefer.
But the biggest reason to do the Northern Lights with a guide is the specialty needs for viewing.
A location away from the lights of town, with indoor access to warm up and eat snacks. Bonus: a photogenic foreground, such as trees, for the photos you will take. The photo of us at right was taken at Wapusk Dogsled by our guide, Eleanor E. Thanks, Eleanor, for this and other photos that appear on this page and for a fantastic trip!
Transportation to and from this viewing spot, and also around town. There are ice roads to drive on that have different rules than a regular road, and sometimes require different vehicles. This is not a big town. I'm not sure taxis even exist here. Though you could walk the whole town, it can be very, very cold here and a tour guide will shuttle you from hotel to restaurant to museum.
Aurora knowledge! Yes, now we know that the Lights are most active at "local solar midnight," which in February in Churchill was 11:30pm-12:30am. Those who watch the skies frequently can tell when a little flicker of light will turn into a big display, and when the clouds are a concern or a passing annoyance. They also took us to places where we could see wildlife during the day, and to museums and local speakers.
Safety: wildlife guides were on hand at all outdoor events. Guides monitored extreme cold and checked on our safety.
About Churchill
Churchill, Manitoba is a rural town on Hudson Bay, 2.5 hours by plane from Winnipeg (or 2 days by train). In winter, the town is known for Northern lights, and in the summer, for polar bears and beluga whales.
We asked each local we met why they came to Churchill or, for lifers, what they like best about life here. Nearly everyone said “the community” as the top reason. They appreciated living in a place where “people don’t care what you are wearing, just if you have enough clothes to stay warm.” No surprise either that indigenous residents said it was about connectedness to land and people.
Above: view from our hotel window
The access to nature was also high on the list. People hunt, watch wildlife, explore in snowmobile or kayak, and live a life that’s dictated by Nature’s activities
One woman working at our hotel said life here lets you see the best and worst of yourself. When young, the challenges of Churchill were exciting adventures. Now these same things are hardships for her as an older adult.
A final impression is that everyone in Churchill learns multiple skills and has myriad jobs. One can’t simply call the plumber to fix an issue, and even when or if they could, parts might not be available. Everyone learns a little carpentry, electrical, mechanics, etc. to get by. One man explained he has a government job (which provides health insurance and steady pay), works fuel lines at the airport (the benefits are flights for people and cargo space), and also grooms trails for dog sled races, does trapping and some overland trips for groups by snowmobile.
Our Aurora Viewing
Our luck with aurora viewing was exceptional. We saw light displays all 4 nights that we were out. The display on night 1 was deemed “once in a lifetime” by several Churchillians.
The Northern lights usually look white to the naked eye. With particularly strong activity, pale green and red shows. The color intensifies, however, with a camera.
*Be sure you have a recent enough cell phone that “night mode” is part of the capability. A SLR camera is also fine. Otherwise, watch the display in whites and pale colors. With a superior display it will still be a joy to watch. But it is also likely you will get only diffuse lights which don’t look like much without a lens
Night 1: Wapusk dogsled cabin
Many thanks to fellow traveller Doug K. for the above video and many of the photos on this page.
Our second night at what I called the "party bus" as it reminded me of a big prom limo with all the lights and snacks appropriate. It was on the water's edge, though too cloudy on our night to see the water. We enjoyed some aurora this evening, but the clouds ended our viewing at about 11, our earliest night. The display below would, for an average trip, have been a big moment.
Our third night at a newly constructed house-like building with a glass ceiling on the second floor. This was the least exciting night. It was also very windy outside and had more light pollution.
Our 4th night
We had visited this location during the day for a nature walk. This is a very pretty location with an outdoor fire pit, and the viewing area is ringed with trees. To get here, we had to take an ice road and use a special large-tire bus.
The lights were again fantastic, with undulating lights and greens and reds.
What to Expect
Each night, we were out between 4-6 hours, ending around midnight. During this time, we went in and out of the shelter (various cabin structures with heat and toilets) as needed, and tour guide staff checked the sky regularly so that if something started happening in the sky, those inside were alerted to move outside and catch the show. Staff also gave us photography help, helped if someone was too cold or injured, and predicted (very well) when it was worth going early or staying late.
Weather and Clothes
The weather can be extreme here. Even those from snowy places needed advice for Churchill’s particulars. We had delightful weather (still cold) but the day we left the forecast was for -62C and the guide explained those temperatures only allow about 2 minutes outside before danger.
Clothes were provided as part of the tour, and hand warmers handed out liberally. Days were organized so that some activities required fewer items of clothing, and then a return to the hotel before outfitting with “expedition gear”
Resources and Food
It may be difficult to find a good site if you are not on a tour! The company we used, Natural Habitat Adventures, contracted with the local Lazy Bear Tours (note they have a lodge as well). They have ONE excursion per season that is not reserved by tour groups.
Food: Since Churchill is a small town, there are not that many spots to eat. The 3 regular meals each day were either adequate or good.
We enjoyed the food at Ptarmigan the best, and this is also the only place in town with a fancy coffee machine.
Dancing Bear Restaurant had a good bison stew. This is also a hotel.
Those traveling without a tour would likely have no trouble getting a table. Food shortages may be an issue for some items; supplies are difficult to get in Churchill and groups contract in advance for the volume and options they need
We also had a lovely snack spread for each night of our viewing: sweets, chips, charcuterie, and warm and cold drinks both non-alcoholic and alcoholic.
Daytime Activities
Wapusk Adventures dog sledding. This is a must-do item. The history of the family, and their approach to dog sledding are both very interesting. The dog sled is a lot of fun. Below are photos of the two of us ready for a dogsled ride, with borrowed fur mittens and hat on Sarah. Center is is owner Dave Daley who told us about the company and his family's history.
We are in the front sled in this video. The dogs are so excited to run!!
Snowshoeing
Nature walk, campfire with bannock (bread) making
Explanation of the aurora: history, science and lore
Local history museum — this was a great stop and is packed with indigenous art
Cultural talk with Dene Routes about indigenous history of the area given by Florence, a Dene educator, plus traditional food.
Cultural talk with Claude, a local who came to Churchill several decades ago.
Visit all 4 of the gift shops in town
Top: local museum artifact and space; Claude and his snowmobile
Bottom: fur mittens are a popular souvenir; Florence of Dene Routes
Visit on the ice road during the day
Wildlife spotting
Below SOUND ON for the adorable sound of this ptarmigan. At left, we are standing on the frozen river
There is also a very small museum of local history and life at the train station. Our tour didn’t visit but we saw it briefly during a bathroom stop
Again, getting to all these places would be tricky or impossible on your own.
Winnipeg
We stayed at the Fort Gary Hotel which had good service and location, elegant old world atmosphere, and thin walls.
A quick walk took us to the River Walk. In the summer, the path is along the river. In the winter, you can also walk, skate, run, and bike ON the river as the ice freezes solid for several months. It stretches for several miles. We walked about 3 miles, admiring the snow sculptures and variety of people and activities on the river. Then we turned into the city and took a tour of the Parliament Building Advanced reservations are needed for a free tour. The building is architecturally and historically significant.
At left, the video show skaters on the RiverWalk.
The Forks--a collection of indoor shops and restaurants, plus ice skate rentals.
The Museum of Human Rights is also in this area and worth a visit. While it is broadly about human rights, it also tells some specific stories of human rights setbacks and advances from local history.
We were there during the Metis celebrations of both Louis Riel Day (community events at The Forks, free) and Festival du Voyageur. Both are recommended. The Festival has many activities for families, like play structures, sledding and such. Fun for all ages includes historical reenactments in the fort buildings (including the store, smith, and similar); lots of music (especially fiddle and other folk), and food (maple syrup snow candy, chowder).
Above: Dan with the Metis hat; a child and parent dressed for Festival du Voyageur; Dan in a snow sculpture on the RiverWalk.
Finally, the Zoo is fantastic. We went for the polar bears and were very lucky to arrive just as they were being given Valentine's Day treats. This meant they were front and center at the large indoor viewing window when we arrived, and then the zookeepers further tempted them with treats into the water while we moved to the aquarium surround. We can't promise you will get the same views, but it's worth a try!
Polar bears dive in the water, walk on the clear aquarium roof over visitors' heads, and eat snacks.
For restaurant recommendations, check out this list of ours.
The polar bears!!!!! The dog sledding!!! The Northern Lights!!! What a fantastic trip!!!