Oaxaca (art)

We booked a one-day trip with Mahsa from Journeys Beyond the Surface and were very happy we did; we told her we wanted to visit artists but also have activities that our kids (who were early teens at the time) would also enjoy.  She is based in Oaxaca; her sister is based in Mexico City and also offers various customized tours.

We visited dye makers, black pottery artists and wooden animal carvers/painters.

The cochineal stop she chose was a small farm dedicated to education about this ancient Mexican practice. There was an English language film, a 1-room museum, and then a tour of a small greenhouse where we could see the growth. Then we ground our own cochineal in little mortars and made paintings. Great activity which all of us enjoyed.

Next we visited Felipe Fabian in Coyotepec for the black pottery (also see this link and this link). There are lots of artisans here, and a HUGE store where most tours stop. But with Mahsa we got a true ARTIST as well as a nice person. Sr. Fabian gave a demonstration, and the kids tried their hands as well (as in the photo featured on tripadvisor). He does all this with no pressure or expectation that you will buy anything. BUT WE DID. This guy's work is in museums in Mexico and he has worked with other famous Mexican artists. He is truly gifted. We bought 2 large, museum-quality pieces and he shipped them to us back home in a huge crate. Our kids loved his work just as much and bought a piece each. When we returned to Oaxaca and saw other black pottery, the kids commented that the prices were the same or higher, and the work was crude. They could see how talented Fabian is before, and especially after, by comparison. It is also notable that by seeing the pottery at one artisan's workshop, we saw a bit about how they lived--the home, the yard, the workshop, his kids, wife, sister. This was a nice way to glimpse real Oaxacan life beyond the tourist store.

We were late to visit Copal Magico because we spent so long with Fabian and his pottery. The kids were cranky for food. Mahsa had the driver stop at a small market where we fueled up.

Copal Magico, with Jesus and Roxana Hernandez, was also a first-class choice. There are many, many folks doing painted wooden animals; these are true artists. First Jesus demonstrated how he carves a figure, and explains what happens to the wood after it is carved and before it is painted. His carvings are quite detailed. Lots of movement, open mouths, teeth and other intricate carvings that you won't see in the stuff commonly available. Then Roxana explained how she paints, and what the symbols in her painting choices--ancient symbols--mean. The level of detail on their work is amazing. And again, the prices are about the same for what you pay in tourist shops, though the work is superior. This couple's work has also been featured by national artist competitions. Recently, I think because of the notice from winning the competition for a lotteria set with carved/painted "bingo" features to pull from a carved/painted box, they have hired several apprentices. The piece we bought was designed by Roxana and painted by a teenage boy who was working while we were there. When we bought it, they said, "oh, that's Michael's. Say goodbye to your piece." and explained that artists often get very attached to certain pieces. Our son bought one painted by a teenage girl who was working during our visit.

You can visit these artists on your own, but going with Mahsa means you get the hands-on experience, the benefit of their friendly relationship with her, and her translation help. Of course, it also means that Mahsa will build a trip for you that is exactly what you want. We booked one day figuring we'd add more if it was good. We wish we had booked her for more days in advance (though her colleagues were also helpful).

We also visited in Oaxaca

• the pools at Hierve el Agua. 

• Mezcal production and tasting

• Monte Alban (ruins)

• Cooking class

• historical botanic gardens

We ate lots of mole in Oaxaca, and we visited the restaurant Los Pacos several times.  Also crickets! 

We stayed at the Casa de las Bugambillias, a small B&B right in the middle of town